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travel narrative by sam libby

Sunday, December 24, 2006 - post date

A Salud y a la Pintar (To Health and to the Visions)

America must take up life where the Red Indian, the Aztec, the Maya,

the Incas left it off. They must pick up the life-thread where the

mysterious Red race let it fall. They must catch the pulse of the

life which Cortes and Columbus murdered. There lies the real

continuity. . .A great and lovely life-form unprotected, fell with

Montezuma. The responsibility for the producing and the perfecting of

this life-form devolves upon the new American.

D. H. Lawrence - Letters

I try to travel with no other intent other than engaging the mystery.

I try to travel with no expectation, anticipation other than being

surprised.

I left the Mystic with no more of a plan than to go to the high

Andes and seek Ayahuasca Communities, Ayahuasca Shamanism. I left

Mystic with the intent of traversing the land of the Incas.

And then Ayahuasca Shamanism was seeking me.

After Merida, Venezuela we (the Chief Rollin' Rock and myself) went

to the border city and smugglers' haven of Cucuta, Columbia. We

stayed in the Jamaican Consulate, la casa de Ras Ayon. Then we were

bound to Bogota, Columbia.

As soon as it was decided it was going to be Bogota I got in contact

with my Columbian bruddah, da Lyon de Sion.

I know Lyon from my voyages in Chiapas last year (see 'the narrative

of the voyages of the bloody, snake chariot,'

www.libbyhome.blogspot.com ). He was a chess buddy at

Casa Babylon in San Cristobal de las Casas. He was there at the

rumble in the Lacondon Jungle. He participated in the night search

for The Lost in the Jungle.

He picked us up at the Bogota Airport. Lyon was eager to tell us that

there was going to be an Ayahuasca ceremony the coming Saturday, some

four days away.

For the next four days Lyon freely discussed the upcoming

ceremony with his acquaintances and anyone interested. Most said they

wanted to participate in the Ayahuasca Ceremony, or at least the

sweat (inipi) that was to follow.

There is an indigenas revival happening here in the high Andes. This

is, perhaps, the most important thing to have happened here since the

so-called Spanish Conquest.

It is the reconquest by the indigenas.

The conquest so fragmented the cultural, political, social, economic,

and sexual reality of Latin America. There is such a hugh

disconnect between the pre-conquest indigenas experience and the post

conquest reality.

It is only appropriate that the great sacrement, the age-old medicina

of the Incas, and many other indigenas people of South America,

Ayahuasca, has become the agency of the integration of the modern

Latin American experience, the modern experience in general. There is

such a great yearning for the integration of experience, reality, the

human circumstances.

We (Lyon, the Chief, Alexandro, Manolo - two of Lyons friends, y yo)

left Bogota on Saturday night and drove about an hour-and-a-half into

the mountains, to the pueblo of Huasca, and then to a farm about

seven miles from the pueblo.

As soon as I got out of the car I felt the presence of the medicina -

could tell that this was a place that for a long time has been

visited by the Ayahuasca entity. We went to a post-modern maloca (a

traditional round indigenas ceremonial/community building) with an

about 80-feet diameter.

Twelve adults, a 10 year-old boy, and two babies were present, during

the ceremony. There were old people, and young. Half were women, half

were men. Most were on the whiter side of the Columbian spectrum of

skin shades. Only a few had clearly indigenas physical features. Most

had the physical, spiritual blessings of the medicina. Most had the

vitality, the strong emanating life force.

Don Juan, the twenty-something leader of the ceremony, and his wife,

prepared for the ceremony by taking three large draughts of the

medicina.

Alexandero, Manolo, and myself prepared for the ceremony by jaming

with harmonicas, indigenas flutes, and drum. It was my first

sustained jam session with my three new and used harmonicas in the

keys of F sharp, G, D.

I was the first that Juan offered the medicina too - a large full

coffee cup. I raised the cup and made the traditional toast, 'Salud'.

All those that followed (including the Chief) gave the toast A

Salud y a la Pintar - To Health and to the Seeing/Visions.

As I waited for the seeing, the hearing, I left the maloca and looked

at the sky and saw, for the first time, the entire Southern Cross.

Much of the night sky was unfamiliar to me. I had a moment of

apprehension. In the enthogenic (entering God) experience I have been

able to orient myself by looking at and identifying the stars in my

familiar latitudes.

As I was entering the experience I heard Juan playing his harmonica.

We jammed. Alexandro and Manolo joined in. We were amazed by the

music. We would laugh often and ask, where did that come from? It was

a beautiful mediative, ultimately joyous song.

We jammed for hours.

Days before the ceremony, long before the first draught was drunk,

Lyon, and Alexandro were thinking about the second. They asked me if

I was going to do a second draught.

I would answer - 'I will do what the medicina tells me.'

We were working a beautiful thing in the music. And then Lyon and

Alexandro, and Manolo said it was time for a second draught.

Juan asked if we still felt drunk (boracho)?

I told Juan that I was feeling an effect - but I definitely was not

drunk.

He asked me if I wanted a second draught.

The first time I had done Ayahuasca I had vomited twice. This time I

had not vomited. In all ways I was feeling good. But when I began

contemplating a second draught, I began to feel stomach cramps.

I told Juan I was working a good thing with the medicina. I did not

need another.

Lyon, Alexandro, Manolo, the Chief took a second draught.

Alexandro had told me that during the last ceremony he had also asked

for a second draught and had immediately become very sick and

disoriented, so much so that he couldn't find the toilet and had

almost shit himself.

Before Lyon did his second draught he saw 'el hombre oscuro,' a

terrifying vision of darkness in a feline/human form. As he tried to

flee this vision, he heard IT laughing in his ears.

Before his second draught the Chief said he wasn't getting off. An

hour after the second draught, he still said he wasn't getting off.

I looked at him. The Chief looked completely demented. But he very

coherently asked Juan for a third draught.

I advised him to wait awhile and see what happened.

Juan spent at least ten minutes considering the Chief's request. And

then gave him a third draught.

Soon after, right around first light, I went to sleep. Soon after

that, the Chief went to Juan and asked for a fourth draught.

Juan told him it was too late for another dose.

Then everyone went to sleep.

The Chief watched the sun rise, alone, with no other person. He

watched the light fill the world, alone. He acknowledges that he had

some trouble walking. But he still claims he didn't get off. He says

if we weren't with him and telling him of our experiences, the

effects that we experienced from the medicina, he would think it was

all a scam - and want his money back.

After the sun was well risen, the Chief went to sleep - for a short

while.

All rose strong. All were focused, completely functional in making a

fire, making the inipi. The Chief had the least sleep of everyone.

But he too looked vital, focused, emanating strong life force.

That night, after we had returned to Bogota, as Lyon and myself were

having hamburgasas, Lyon asked me what I thought?

I told him I had thoroughly enjoyed the context, the experience of

the medicina. But I had one reservation about the postures before the

mystery that I had observed.

This thing about being drunk, about being a drunk.

I asked Lyon what he thought the medicina was trying to tell him in

the vision of 'el hombre oscura'?

Lyon thought for a while and said, 'It is something about my posture

before the mystery.'

And I said he was totally on it, that of course the mystery was going

to totally fuck with ya, if you approached IT in the posture of a

drunk.

Lyon acknowledged that this was something to consider.

But he asked me to consider this.

He has been attending this ceremony of Ayahuasca for eight years. In

all this time, until very recently, he has done only one draught in

the course of the ceremony. He has been advised by shamans that to

grow in the experience of the Ayahuasca, to grow in the seeing and in

the visions - requires more Ayahuasca.

I am considering this.

Know them by their fruit.

I have seen the fruit of this community of Ayahuasca.

And it is good.